April 2011 The Paint Spot Newsletter

Well, we made it through March, although I have to tell you, I thought I bit off more than I could chew.

In March we took on a couple of projects that would equate to literally working our asses off. The first project was moving to a new location (it was actually the original location for the paint spot) which meant some changes. The bldg was in need of some repairs, so cleaning and painting was high on the priority list, and I don't know about you, but when I start something, it always seems to get more involved. Before it was over, we tiled, painted, caulked, replaced windows, some doors, did some plumbing, trimmed trees, and I personally remember running a Bobcat from sun up to sun down one day. At the same time, we were moving all the inventory and office from the old location, and that got more involved than expected. The inventory had accumulated at the other location for several years, and it was just put where ever we could find space with no real method to the madness . The bldg was small (it seemed big back in the old days) and there was never enough room to set things up right. We knew where everything was, but it was time consuming getting an order together and getting worse by the day. So when we started moving product here, I figured that now was the time to get it right, so we bought shelving (that matched) and actually took advantage of space and future growth potential. I also made sure that we had a place to paint (matches and spray outs) thinking it would be too timely to go to Slix and do it. The spray area can also be used for classes and demos. Anyway, the whole deal was a lot more expensive and time consuming than I figured, but it's behind us now (for the most part). The other big deal in March was the Fun works project that took place in the Bahamas. This is the project in which a crew that I put together primarily of Slix guys flew to Orlando, then took a ship (the actual ship that we were to do the painting on) to the Bahamas. Let me mention the crews names: Edgar Ramirez (from Texas 46), Nick Haley (Slix), Patches (Slix), Nick Colonna (Slix), Shawn Ciotti (my son and the new owner of Slix), JR Roberts (Jr s custom cycles), Mild Bill Pelton (a world class pin striper who writes for Auto Art magazine), Rodney Colonna ( a world class drummer that has played for so many big names including Ringo and his all-star band, and who had no paint and body experience, but totally kicked ass ), and last but not least .Me. This was the second of thirteen ships that The Paint Spot was contracted to do. The first trip had its share of hickups do to freight and management issues. I was asked to personally manage this project for that reason, and after not really having the time or desire to be on the project, and due to the unnecessary bullshit that my crew was put through on the first project, I welcomed trip two with open arms. I had intended on bighting my tongue for a while, finding out who was who, finding the person or persons responsible for the bullshit on the first trip, then setting the record straight. That lasted about five minutes. I no sooner met the management staff of the ship and then got my ass reamed out for five straight minutes. I asked (when I could get a word in edgewise) are you finished ? When she said yes, I let her have both barrels. It seems that in an effort to save their own jobs, the staff decided to blame the logistical errors of the first trip on (are you ready for this) The Paint Spot! I told them that I was in possession of an e-mail (that I wasn't supposed to have) that clearly stated that their logistical dept dropped the ball, and the lying and finger pointing was over. I then let her know how it was going to be and I quote

I am a no nonsense, zero tolerance mother f*!#^r, and if you leave me alone, leave my crew alone, and don't attempt to micro manage us, I will give you what you want and make you look real good in your bosses eyes ! She looked me in the eye and said I can work with that ! I had to attend meetings twice a day to receive updates from the management of the ship, and to keep them informed of contractor performance and percentage completed updates. They wanted me to give them progress in percentage form daily at 5:30pm. Here s the cool part, at 5:30pm the first day they asked for the progress of fun works to which I reported 60% complete. Now to put that in perspective, there were 55 contractors on board which equated to more than 3100 people (workers). Most of the contractors in that first meeting were either reporting that they were just setting up or at the most 2% into their projects.

Well I don't have to tell you, a lot of heads turned and Fun works became super stars when I stood up in front of all those folks and gave my report. While all the other contractors were getting their staterooms and drinking beer in the ships bar on the ride from Orlando to Bahamas, me and the Fun works crew got our shit set up and were busting ass. All this took place from 3:00 pm Sunday (when we first boarded the ship) and 2:00 am Monday morning (before the first day of work actually started). We totally blew their minds, and I was the only project manager that didn't just walk around looking important, I worked my ass off in between meetings.

Because of letting the staff know how and where I stood, and performing like I said we would, we not only earned their respect, we were offered as much of the other work on board their ships as we wanted or thought we could do. To that I have to say yet again .Honesty is the best policy! Now on to some other stuff: I was asked during the month if you have a run in Matte clear, can it be cut and buffed? Ruben at Chopped and Diced used some of the Matrix MS 100 Matte clear and got a sag. He called me and posed the question and I answered that's a good question, why don't you try it and clue me in . He did and said .No! Since then, I have heard of using baking soda with the liquid ice and the number two pad, however, I've not yet tried it myself. If anyone does, please let me know how it works. Another little something all North Star epoxy primer users need to be aware of . North Star epoxy primers (EP210b, EP210w, EP210g, EP210r,etc) cannot be used over self etch primers! For you fleet customers, shoot it over bare metal, then paint as you always have. For custom or restoration customers: Do not use North Star epoxy! Use Matrix MP Epoxy primers over self etch! Any questions on this issue call me before you proceed.

The more I go along with this business, the more I learn that things change (i.e.; the North Star epoxy primer). I'm sure the mfg. has their reasons for some of these changes, but I'm shocked of how little is said when these changes occur. It seems that they make these changes and then because they're afraid you won't buy their product anymore, they say little or nothing about the changes. A great example is the PPG DP epoxy primer, it used to be an awesome product, until they took the lead out and changed the product to a point that in order to use it, you literally have to let it set for up to seven days before resuming the job. Not only that, they said nothing about it, and if you read the P sheet, the clue is written so small, you ll certainly miss it. Again, I must reiterate, Matrix epoxy primer is not the same as PPG! The cure time is much shorter! Here s something that I need to bring to your attention:

For all you SATA users, be aware that from the NR2000 and up (which includes the 3000 and 4000 guns) if you leave fluid in the cup, you will have to replace the nylon seal between the fluid tip and the body regularly! If and when you remove the fluid tip for routine cleaning, you will have to replace this seal! I have been a dedicated Sata user for 15 years and I noticed having problems with mottling on metallics. This started when I was using an NR2000 that I had bought used from Bob Jurgensen when he worked for Hoffman s. It had been his demo gun and I knew he kept his stuff in good shape, so I bought it for $300.00. I could get around the problem (as I'm sure any experienced painter could) by narrowing the fan, holding the gun back, and moving a little quicker, but it wasn't until I tried a brand new NR 3000, that I noticed that I didn't have to do anything to get even metallics.

I bought that gun and one more for my son and we were off and running. I usually paint between 15 and twenty cars before I tear the gun down and do a thorough cleaning. Well after I did that, the gun never sprayed the same, and the same with my sons. In the mean time, I d sold several NR3000 s and when I brought up the subject, everyone had the same complaint, although virtually no one had complained on their own. They all said I thought it was just me . I had to get to the bottom of it, and that finally happened when I finally got the SATA reps out to the store. They flat out told me not to leave fluid in the cup or use lacquer thinner when cleaning around that seal ..Now how in the hell, are we supposed to accomplish that? Even if you have a gun washer (especially if you have a gun washer) you're going to get thinner around that seal. I then informed them that I have for thirty years always left thinner in the cup, and always use thinner to do a thorough cleaning, and I've never had a problem before. That s when they informed me that they changed the design and now you have to replace this stupid seal (for $13.00/each). Now damn it, this is yet another example of how these changes take place, and nobody says shit! Haven t they ever heard that famous expression .. If it ain t broke .Don t fix it ! Well, I probably don't need to say it, but that kind of bullshit pisses me off! I've been a dedicated Sata guy for years, and not only that, I've sold at least 50 of their guns, and now I feel like I've ripped off my friends and customers. If you ve got one of these guns, and you bought it from the paint spot, I ll sell you the seals at cost. If you need a new gun and you want a SATA, my advice is ..Don t do it! If you do, you do so with the knowledge I've just given you. Here s a real alternative, and I ll even let you demo it for free before you buy! Iwata! All Slix crew now uses Iwata LPH 400 s, and we've sold 36 LPH 400 s and Super Novas in the last 2 months, since we became an Iwata distributor. We sell them for less than retail and we'll even let you painters make payments. The best part of all is, there s no seal to deal with. They are made similar to the old Sata NR95 (a machined fit), and here s a bold statement

I recommend not using the standard restrictor valve and replacing it with an RTI diaphragm regulator instead (which we have for a song). You ll notice the difference as soon as you start painting. The reps at Iwata are pretty much the same as anyone else, in that, they want me to sell you a base coat gun and a clear gun, but I think that's the biggest crock of shit I've ever heard. I told them that if a customer absolutely had to have two guns, then I would sell them two, but that would only happen after I told them it wasn't necessary! (They told me I was passionate)? I use a LPH400 with a 1.3 fluid tip (the same gun) for base coat, clear coat, and single stage and it sprays all of them Tits .

Some of you guys are convinced (because you ve been told) that you need a different gun for different materials ..That s bullshit! Now, with that said, and if you want, I ll sell you a different gun for everyday of the week if you want it.